How Onigiri Master Yumiko Ukon Makes 500,000 Rice Balls a Year — The Experts
Eater
6 min, 31 sec
An onigiri artisan shares her journey, the philosophy behind her craft, and the unique offerings at her shop, Bongo.
Summary
- The artisan has spent a significant time making onigiri alone, estimating around 450,000 to 500,000 pieces made.
- She emphasizes that the rice is the main character in onigiri, and the accompaniments should not overshadow its essence.
- Bongo introduces unconventional fillings like mayonnaise and meat, reflecting the evolving tastes of customers.
- The shop operates with a small team, making onigiri continuously from 11:30 AM to midnight.
- The artisan's mother's onigiri, filled with love, is her personal benchmark for taste and quality.
Chapter 1
The artisan discusses her extensive experience in making onigiri and her philosophy of keeping rice as the main focus.
- The artisan has made an estimated 450,000 to 500,000 onigiri over her career.
- She believes that the best onigiri is one where the accompaniments complement, but do not overpower, the rice.
- On a busy day, she uses up to 60 kilograms of rice.
Chapter 2
The evolution of onigiri at Bongo is discussed, highlighting the diversity of fillings now offered.
- Historical onigiri fillings at Bongo included salmon and kelp, but now they incorporate almost anything except water and oil.
- The shop's name, Bongo, was inspired by the sound of a drum, reflecting the late owner's passion for drumming.
Chapter 3
The artisan describes how she started making onigiri and the importance of speed and gradual improvement.
- She began making onigiri at the age of around 35 when a sushi chef suddenly left, forcing her to take over.
- Making an onigiri is a matter of seconds, and she has refined her technique over 60 years.
Chapter 4
The daily operations at Bongo are explained, including the team composition and the shop's operational hours.
- Bongo currently has three staff members, and the shop stays open from 11:30 AM to midnight.
- The onigiri-making process is done by hand, and they use a special tool similar to a drumstick to mix the rice.
Chapter 5
The artisan reflects on the changing customer base and shares personal memories of her mother's onigiri.
- Originally, the clientele was local, but media exposure has brought customers from afar, including international visitors.
- The artisan's childhood memories of her mother's onigiri shape her own creations and her emotional connection to the food.
Chapter 6
Customers express their curiosity and excitement for the unique onigiri combinations available at Bongo.
- One customer visits for the first time after seeing the shop on an idol program, looking forward to unusual combinations like curry and beef tendon onigiri.
- Another customer's favorite topping is sea chicken (tuna), and they are interested in trying new varieties.
Chapter 7
The artisan shares her deep connection with onigiri and the meaning it holds as a labor of love.
- Onigiri is seen as a food made with love and care, which is why it's beloved by many.
- The recent loss of the owner has led the artisan to further dedicate herself to the craft of onigiri making.
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